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Gambino Winery
Did you know Sicily is Italy’s largest wine region at 242,000 vineyard acres (98,000 hectares) home to 65 native varieties? For context, Italy ranked as the top wine producer in the world for the past ten years. In 2023, the fell behind to France as top.
After arriving in Sicily, we made our way to the Mount Etna wine region, the first DOC in Sicily, created in 1978. Located in northeast Sicily, Mount Etna stands 1,100 feet and is an active volcano (in one single month, it can erupt more than 10X). This unpredictability makes the wine from this region shockingly good because it’s literally on the edge of destruction. How does this impact the soil? The volcanic terroir contributes to the vibrant acidity and with rich minerals such as magnesium, copper, phosphorus and iron, this helps with drainage. With more stress on the grapevines (due to stony soils), this results in thicker grape skins, better sunlight absorption, and smaller, more intense grapes. These factors give wines a “salty sweetness” and a savory quality. Another advantage of volcanic soils is their natural resistance to phylloxera. It’s important to note that wines from volcanic soils are not better, they’re just unique. How do volcanic wines taste? There’s an elegant complexity to the finish I noticed with the wines. The main grape variety in this region is Nerello Mascalese, which is indigenous to Sicily, along with Nerello Cappuccio. Both varieties are often blended to make the signature reds, Etna Rosso, well known in the region. For whites, Carricante is another ancient variety indigenous to Sicily. As a result of the altitude, both whites and reds have a fresh acidity and distinctive minerality. Red wines, in particular, tend to be earthy and complex.
If you like Barolo or Red Burgundy, you’ll find the structure and tannins similar here: elegant, structured, perfumed and age-worthy. Similar to Burgundy where granularity of site lends unique qualities to the wines, the volcanic soil differs due to Etna’s constant activity. You see, Mount Etna is a live volcano that regularly rains lava and minerals down on the vineyards. Etna’s wine producers are experimenting with vineyard sites further up the volcano’s slopes, to gauge the effects of the richer, blacker lava flow soils and increased altitude on the wine.
Perched on the side of Mt Etna, you’ll find stunning a gem, Gambino Winery. While the “Godfather” movies were filmed in Sicily, there is no association to the Gambino mob family in New York City. If you are planning a visit to this wine region, put Gambino on your list. Located at 900 meters above sea level northeast slopes of the volcano, this family-run business produces some of the best red and white wines! Their wine experience included a tasting of five wines and a three-course: eggs, couscous, olive oil, four different kinds of cheese, olives, sun dried tomatoes, sausage, and eggplant, all foods native to the area. AND, breathtaking views! I love their “Tifeo Rosso” red wines. The aromas are light on spice balanced by fresh, rich mineral notes. They ship all around the world and shipping is waived if you spend $150+. You can also find some of their wines at Total Wine. Tip: The wineries in Mount Etna are not close to one another so I highly recommend joining a wine tour or hire a private driver/tour guide. Appointments are required.
Ilborro Winery
To put your best foot forward in winemaking, land is key to producing quality wines.
Just a 10-minute walk from the Medici villa where we were staying, we came across a hotel-winery-farm owned by the Ferragamo family. YES, the Italian family that owns the luxury fashion house founded by Salvatore Ferragamo; famously known for designing iconic shoes for Hollywood. In 1993, his son and current company president, Ferruccio, bought Il Borro— a 1,700-acre property that includes a medieval village. Situated in Tuscany’s Valdarno Valley, the property has diverse soil types conducive to growing Sangiovese, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Unique to the property is its negative carbon footprint program. The estate produces their own solar energy—three times as much as consumed and spreads across 700 hectares of rolling hills to include vineyards and olive groves. Today, Il Borro is managed by two of Ferruccio’s six children: Salvatore Jr, CEO and Vittoria who is responsible for Il Borro’s Garden.
In 2001, Salvatore Jr released the first II Borro wine, which was a Bordeaux blend Super Tuscan red. #tuscanblend #organicwine #biodynamicwines In 2019, he opened the doors to Viesca, which is where we had lunch. It was a relaxing quiet Wednesday afternoon and we were the only people at the property. Imagine eating a farm-to-table lunch paired with wine overlooking the Tuscan villas! My favorite was their Pian di Nova wine, which is a blend of 75% Syrah and 25% Sangiovese. A new 100% Cabernet Sauvignon called Nitrito was recently released in the United States, retailing for $450+ a bottle. #winecollector #wineenthusiast #winelovers In 2008, the family included a gallery to include Ferruccio’s art collection of Mantegna, Picasso, Goya and Warhol. So if you’re a wine and art lover, this winery is a MUST.